Nothing Could Replace a Báhn Mi in My Heart, But This Vegan Version Will Do

The brown sugar in the marinade helps this seitan mimic the same char as Vietnamese grilled pork.

I’ve been thinking about meat substitutes this week a lot as I plan for the tofu class this weekend. I like to eat plant-based often, and I often think about what is stopping me from going head-on into the lifestyle. The answer more often than not is pork. 90% of the meats I really love are pork: pepperoni, pork and chive dumplings, prosciutto, paté campagne, and even the occasional bodega sausage egg and cheese are among my favorite foods. I eat them in such limited quantities that it’s hard to imagine my life without them completely. Case in point: my favorite sandwich, the báhn mi.

Ever had a báhn mi with tofu? It is woefully disappointing in my experience; dry and completely devoid of the flavor provided by the five spiced paté. It also has none of the char or depth of umami associated with grilled Vietnamese pork. I have tried to formulate a recipe that mirrors all of the things I love about Vietnamese sandwiches in (almost) vegetarian form, and I think I’ve found a decent compromise.

Seitan is a super tasty meat substitute with a very high protein content and a nice propensity to char. It has fallen out of vogue recently with the gluten-free movement, since it is made of vital wheat gluten. If you aren’t celiac, don’t let that stop you! It has a chew to it that I’m particularly fond of.

I did make my own seitan for this recipe, and perhaps I’ll circle back to that topic in the near future. However, I’m assuming if you’re reading this recipe that you might want to eat tonight instead, so I’ll skip this project for now and get to the (plant-based) meat of the matter instead.

The ingredients in this recipe are loosely measured. This process is meant to encourage you to taste as you go. This is a fundamental part of the way I develop recipes. Amounts (in particular for the marinade) are meant to be eyeballed and adjusted according to your personal preferences.

Note: There is fish sauce in this recipe, so it is not vegetarian. I know that there are vegan versions of fish sauce out there known as yeast garum, but I can’t tell you how to source it. Minimalist Baker seems to have some decent suggestions and a recipe for a 20-minute vegan “fish sauce” instead if that’s your jam.

The only kind of hero I want is this delicious sandwich, ASAP.

Vegan Vietnamese Bahn Mi

Ingredients, Marinated Pork:

• 2 8-oz packages of seitan, cut into strips

• 1 medium shallot

• 2 stalks of lemongrass

• Approximately 1/4 cup brown sugar (2 spoonfuls)

• Approximately 1/4 cup fish sauce (3 splashes)

• 2 splashes of soy sauce

• Vegetable oil

Carrot and Daikon Pickles:

• 3/4 cup water

• 3/4 cup rice wine vinegar

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 1 horse carrot, julienned

• 1 small (carrot sized) daikon, julienned

Assembly:

• Charred seitan

• Pickles

• 2-3 soft individual-sized baguettes

• Mayonnaise

• Cucumber spears

• Cilantro, stems and leaves

Procedure:

1. Make the marinade: take your lemongrass stems and slice the bottom thicker base away from the reedy tops. Discard the tops and the first couple of fibrous layers surrounding the base of the lemongrass. Slice up the remaining tender bits and add them to the blender with shallots, fish sauce, soy sauce and brown sugar. Blend, adding enough oil so that the mixture is smooth. Taste and adjust any of the seasonings to make it delicious.

2. Marinate your seitan for at least three hours. While the seitan is marinating, make your pickles. Mix the water, rice wine vinegar, and sugar until the sugar is dissolved then pour over your julienned carrots and daikon.

3. Once your seitan is ready, turn on your broiler on high. Place your seitan on a foil lined baking sheet with the marinade and place under the broiler until the seitan is browned and some bits are nicely charred, 5-8 minutes. Remove from the broiler.

4. Assemble your sandwich in the following manner:

   • Cut the bread 3/4 of the way lengthwise so that the bread still opens like a book.

   • Liberally add mayonnaise to both sides of the bread. Add cucumber spears so that they line the spine of the bread.

   • Stuff the sandwich with the charred seitan next. followed by a generous amount of pickles.

   • Finish with large sprigs of cilantro, jalapeño slices, and sriracha if desired.

That’s all there is to it! Let me know if you try out the recipe— I’d love to hear how it went for you.